Thursday, October 21, 2010
Taking The Key Body Measurements:
1) Apex of bust - From the base of the neck to the highest point on the bust.
2) Chest front - From armhole to armhole
3) Bust - From bust line around the fullest part of the back, (all the way around).
4) Neck to waist
5) Waist
6) Waist to hem.
7) Side waist to hem.
8) Shoulder to waist
9) Skirt yoke.
10) Hips - Measure the fullest part of the hips.
11) Inside the arm.
12) Shoulder
13) Shoulder to waist.
14) Neck (nape) to waist (back).
15) Elbow to wrist
16) Back, armhole to armhole
17) Shoulder to elbow
18) Waist (back)
19) Upper arm
20) Skirt yoke (back)
21) Hip (back)
22) Wrist
23) Elbow
24) Waist to hem.
no.5 (front) and no.18(back) are waist line.
Hip / seat circumference - Around the hip at the fullest point of the buttocks, parallel to the floor. Approximately 7" to 8" below the waist is hip (or) seat circumference. w to s means waist to seat. ie., waist to seat length.
(w to S = distance between waist and seat) standard measurement of
w to s for adult = 7" and for children = 5 ".
In this picture, i have mentioned 7" (standard length) is 'waist to seat' length. 2" means band width. ie., total band width is 2". After folding the band ie., after stitching the band , band width will become 1". Total waist band width is 7" + 2" = 9". Add ½” seam allowance at each side of upper and lower part of fabric.
one more simple method:
Chudidhar is cutting is done on bias.
(0-2) & (0-5) = 1/3 seat
(0-2) & (5-3) = 'X' (midpoint) ie., take (0-2) & (5-3) measurement
divided into two equal parts, say 'x' and ' x' and cut dotted line x-x.
for upper part, take waist band measurement given in last post.
cut the upper part on straight grain and lower part on bias. Add ½”
seam allowance at each side of upper and lower part of fabric.
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
CHUDIDHAR(GATHERING)
Measurements:
Length
Seat
Knee
Calf
Ankle
Band
W to S = 7” standard (for adults)
Construction:
(0-1) = Length
(0-2),(2-3) & (0-5) = 1/3 seat
(3-3’) = 1 ½” extra
(5-3) = ‘x’ midpoint
(2-1) = ‘x’ midpoint say ‘10’
(10-10’) = 4” down
(10-11) = ½ knee + ¼”
(10’-11’) = ½ calf + ¼”
(1-4) = ½ ankle + ¼”
(1-1’) = 10” to 20” down ( extra for gathering)
(4-4’) = (1-1’)
Note: If width of the material is insufficient to cut the pattern on bias.
The pattern should be cut 7” to 8” above the fork line (2-3-3’) dotted line X-X
(OR) Take the midpoint of X on(5-3) and cut dotted line X-X.
for upper part, take below given waist band measurement.
Now cut the upper part on straight grain and the lower part on true bias.
In this case add ½” seam allowance at each side of this joint at X-X.
Waist Band
(0-1) = w to s + Band ie., (7”+2” = 9”)
(0-2) & (1-3) = ¼ seat + 4” or 6”
ANARKALI TOP (Green)
Monday, October 11, 2010
SALWAR
SALWAR (Adult) - 2 ½ mtrs
Measurements:
Length - 40”
Seat - 40”
Waist to seat (w to s) - 7” (Adult) / 5” (children)
Band - 2”
Ankle - 12”
Construction:
(0-1) - Length – w to s
(0-2) - 1/3 seat – w to s
(0-5) & (2-3) - Material width
(5-5’) - 1” inside
(1-4) - ½ ankle
Waist Band
(0-1) - w to s + Band ie., (7”+2” = 9”)
(0-2) & (1-3) - ¼ seat + 4” or 6”
Saturday, October 9, 2010
SIMPLE KAMEEZ
Measurements:
Length
Chest
Natural Waist length
Waist
Shoulder
Neck
Construction:
(0-1) - Length
(0-2) - [1/6 Chest (for tight fitting) ] or
[1/6 Chest + 1" ( or) 1/4 chest - 1"( for loose fitting)]
(2-3) - ¼ Chest + 1”
(0-10) - Natural Waist Length
(10-11) - ¼ Waist + 1”
(1-4) - Material width (or) [(2-3) + 2"]
(4-4') - 2" up
(0-5) - ½ Shoulder
(0-7) - 1/12 Chest
(5-6) - ½” down
for back and front Neck depth as your wish. But if you need deep neck, you should reduce the shoulder width ie., (0-5) - 1/2 shoulder - 1"
Sleeve:
Measurements:
Sleeve length
Round arm.
Construction:
(0-1) - Sleeve Length
(0-2) - 1/12 Chest + ¾”
(2-3) - ¼ Chest – 1”
(1-4) - ½ Round Arm
Seam allowance is not included in the draft.
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
ANARKALI SALWAR
WORKED ANARKALI TOP
I am passionate about aari embroidery , free style embroidery, all types of Indian embroidery and stitching too.
Now i am going to show this anarkali top for those who are interested.
I Stitched this Anarkali set for my younger daughter.
She likes this dress very much.
I took 3 day to finish this dress.
2 days for designing and 1 day for stitching.
I used antic beads,chammikki,golden beads and so on.
I used aari needle to stitch the beads and everything.
first, i transfered the design to the fabric then, i fixed with aari cot(rectangle frame) and i did the work.
finally, i stitched the dress.
I used crush material for more attraction.
Monday, October 4, 2010
ANARKALI TOP (RED)
hi........
I have stitched this Anarkali dress for my younger daughter, Harshini. Her birthday party held on 2nd October 2010. This time, I stitched this anarkali dress with panels.For more attraction, I attached net material on that dress.
First, I thought of doing jorthishi work and bead work on the net, unfortunately I couldn't do the embroidery on the net because the net was very thin. Finally, I stitched plain net and I stick ed stones on the neck.
In the next posting, I will be showing you the construction of the Anarkali dress and how to cut and stitch of the dress.