My daughter's birthday dress

 

KURTHA

 

MEASUREMENTS:

Full length

Chest

Waist length

Shoulder

Neck

Seat

Waist

Sleeve length

Sleeve round

CONSTRUCTION:  (for front)

(0-1)                =          Length + 1” (for folding)

(0-2)                =          1/6 chest + 1”

(2-3)                =          ¼ chest + 1”

(1-4)                =          (2-3) + 5”  (or)   {(14-15) for striaght cut }

(0-5)                =          ½ shoulder

(0-7)                =          1/5 Neck

(5-6)                =          ½” down

(0-8)                =          1/5 Neck (for front neck)

(0-10)             =          Waist length

(10-11)           =          ¼ waist + 1”  (or)  (2-3) – 1”
(10-14)           =          7"  (seat line for adult)
(14-15)           =          1/4 seat + 1"

X                     =          midpoint of (6-6’)

(x-y)                =          ½” (front armscye)

(8-12)             =          ¾”

(12-13)           =          4”

(4-4’)               =          1” (shape kurtha bottom)

(0-9)        =        1/2"down

draw back neck curve.

add seam allowance 1 1/2" in  the sides of the front and back bodice part and  1/4" for the shoulder.

SLEEVE:

(0-1)      =     Sleeve length + 1 1/2"  (for folding)
(0-2)      =     1/12 chest + 3/4"
(2-3)      =     1/4 chest - 1"
(1-4)      =      1/2 Arm round
5            =       midpoint of (3-0)
(5-6)      =       mark 1"  up
(0-6-3)   =      sleeve back armscye
7             =       midpoint of (5-3)
(7-8)       =       mark 3/4" (for front armscye)
(0-5-8-3) =       sleeve front armscye

add seam allowance 1" in both the sides of the sleeves.

Round collar:

(0-1)                  =       1 1/2"
(0-2) &  (1-3)    =       1/2  neck + 1/4" (for seam allowance)
x    =    midpoint
(3-4)                  =       1/2"  up
(2-5)                  =       1/4"

Join (4-5) and produce the line
(4-6)    =   (0-1)
shape the curve (0-6-5)

Cloth required for different dresses

The following cloth is needed for adults.

1. 

1.   Plain umbrella kurta / A line kurta :   For this, twice the length + quarter          meter cloth is needed.   If  the length of sleeves is more, then that much sleeve length cloth is needed more.

2.       Fitting kurta :  Same as above.

3.      Bangle sleeves:  For this, we need one meter cloth more.

4.      Rangler kurta:  Twice the height + quarter meter extra.

5.      Salwar:  Twice the height.

6.      Kali salwar (joint on the salwar) :  Twice the length.  If you want more in width wise, then you need quarter meter cloth extra.

7.      Chuddidar ( chuddis in the bottom) :  Twice the length.  If you want more chuddies then quarter meter cloth extra.

8.      Patiyala salwar :  For this you need 44 inches widthwise cloth which is twice the height + half meter cloth extra.

9.      High neck kurta:  Twice the height + quarter meter cloth extra.

10.  Front – back open neck kurta : Twice the height + quarter meter extra.

11.  Princess line kurta : Twice the height + quarter meter extra. If you want more in width, then you need half to three quarter meter cloth extra.

12.  Kurta having 4 kalis below waist : Twice the height + half meter cloth extra.

13.  Kurta having maximum kalis : Twice the height + one meter cloth extra.

14.  Lucknowi style kurta : Twice the height + quarter meter cloth extra.

15.  Lucknowi style (kalis) kurta : Twice the height + one meter cloth extra.

16.  Overlap kurta :  Twice the height + half meter cloth extra. If you cut the dress in width wise cloth, both salwar & kurta  fits in that material.

17.  Full umbrella kurta :  From one saree one dress can be made.  If you make the top different, then three & half to four meter cloth is needed.

18.  Half jacket :  Three quarters to one meter cloth is needed.  For this,  you need to put a lining. Lining should be same as the cloth i.e. three quarter or 1 meter.

19.  Full jacket : Twice the height + quarter meter cloth extra.  If you want big sleeves, then that much length cloth is needed extra.  If the cutting is put in width wise cloth, then we can make a sleeveless jacket also & for that we need one & three quarter meter cloth.

For above dresses, for small children, we do not need extra cloth.  For above all the measures are taken health wise.  For healthy women, we need quarter or half meter more than the above measurements.  If the cloth has design or pictures on one side (i.e. print on one side ), then you need quarter or half meter extra cloth.

Party Frock

 

Measurements:

Full Length

Chest

Shoulder

Waist Length

Waist

Neck

Construction:

(0-1)  =   Waist length

(0-2)  =    1/6 chest

(2-3)  =   ¼ chest + 1”

(1-4)  =   ¼ waist + 1”

(0-7)  =   1/12 chest

(0-5)  =   ½ shoulder

 Midpoint = X

Dart Length (x-y) =  4”

If you want to attach sleeve , take (5-6) = 1/2" shoulder slope

for sleeve tutorial is here

STRIP

Skirt

(0-1)  =   Full Length  -  waist length

(0-2)  =  material width

GHAGARA TOP

 

MEASUREMENTS:

Length

Chest

Waist length

Waist

Shoulder

Seat

Neck

Sleeve length

Sleeve round

CONSTRUCTION:

(0-1)                     =             Length

(0-2)                     =             ¼ chest – 1”

(2-3)                     =             ¼ chest + 1 ½”

(0-10)              =            waist length

(10-11)            =             (2-3)    -    1”

(1-4)                =             ¼ seat + 1”

(4-4’)              =               1” up

(0-5)                =             ½ shoulder

(5-6)                =             ½ ” down

(6-6’)              =               straight line

(0-7)                =              1/12 chest + ¼ “

(0-8)                =               front neck

(0-9)                =               back neck

(10-11)            =              X  (midpoint)

Dart width       =              ¾ “

 add seam allowance  1" for body sides and 1/4" for shoulder

 

SLEEVE:

(0-1)                =             sleeve length

(0-2)                =              1/12 chest +  ¾”

(2-3)                =               ¼ chest

(1-4)                =               ½ sleeve round

 x = midpoint

add seam allowance 1" for sleeves both sides

Ghagra Skirt (model 2)

MEASUREMENTS:

LENGTH

WAIST

SEAT

CONSTRUCTION:

(0-1)             =        Length – waist band (2”)

(0-2)             =        1/8 of waist + 1”

(0-3)             =        material width

(4-4’)       =       1/8 of waist + 1”

WAIST BAND

























(0-1)                  =        waist band width  2”                                   

(2-3)                  =        (0-1)

(0-2) & (1-3)    =        ½  Waist + 1 ½”

SUMMER TOP

 

MEASUREMENTS:

Length  = 10” (below neck)

Chest    = 20”

                                                                                               
                                                                                            

CONSTRUCTION:

( 0-1)  &  ( 2-3)    =   Length

( 0-2)  &  ( 1-3)    =   ½  chest + 2”

For more attraction stitch with lace.

YOKE SKIRT

Measurements:

Length

Waist

Seat

Waist to Seat  =  5” ( for children) and  7” or 8” (for Adults)

Construction:  
                                                                                               
                                                                                                   

Yoke Shape

(0-1)      =     waist to seat  = 5”

(0-2)      =      ¼ waist + 1”

(1-3)      =      ¼ seat + 1”

(3-3’)     =      2” UP

Elastic   =      Waist – 3”

Skirt

(0-1) , (0-2)  &  (0-3)     =     1/3 seat

(1-4),  (2-5)  &  (3-6)     =      Skirt Length -  Waist to Seat

Waist Band