ANARKALI KAMEEZ

ANARKALI KAMEEZ

 Measurement:

Full Length

Chest

Waist length

Waist

Shoulder

Neck

Seat

        Construction:

(0-1)            =             Waist Length

(0-2)            =              1/6 chest

(2-3)            =              1/4 chest + 1"

(1-4)            =              1/4 waist + 1"

(0-5)            =              1/2 shoulder

(0-7)            =              1/12 chest

(5-6)            =              1/2" down

"x"                =              midpoint

(0-1) , (0-2)  &  (0-3)    =    1/3  seat

(1-6) , (2-5)  &  (3-4)    =     full length -  waist length

Measurements:

Sleeve Length

Round Arm

Construction:

(0-1) - Sleeve Length

(0-2) - 1/12 Chest + ¾”

(2-3) - ¼ Chest – 1”

(1-4) - ½ Round Arm

BALLOON SALWAR

Balloon salwar  (44" width)                                        

                           

                                                                     

   

      Measurements:

      Length

      Seat

      Waist to seat  =  7"

       Ankle            =  12"
  

      Construction:

      ( 0-1)       = Length - waist to seat

      (0-2)        = 1/3 seat - waist to seat

      (0-5) & (2-3)  =   Material width

      (1-4)        =  14" to 20"

     

Waist Band:

(0-1)              = waist to seat + 2"

(0-2)&(1-3)   = 1/4 seat + 4"





Pleats should be Box Pleats.

SIMPLE SALWAR

MODEL 1

  MEASUREMENTS:

  LENGTH
  SEAT

CONSTRUCTION:

 (0-1)                =        3.5 cm
 (1-2)                =         Length + 1 cm
 (1-3)                =         1/3 seat + 5 cm

 (0-4)                =         1/4 seat
 (1-5)                =         1/4 seat
  (3-6)               =          1/4 seat
 (2-7)                =          1/4 seat

  (4-8)               =           1/3 seat  (or)   1/2 seat
  (5-9)               =            1/3 seat  (or)   1/2 seat
  (6-10)             =            1/3 seat  (or)   1/2 seat

  (2-11)             =             6 cm

  MODEL  -  2

     MEASUREMENTS:

  LENGTH
  SEAT

 

CONSTRUCTION:

 (0-1)                =        3.5 cm
 (1-2)                =         Length + 5 cm
 (1-3)                =         1/3 seat + 5 cm

 (0-4)                =         1/2 seat
 (1-5)                =         1/2 seat
  (3-6)               =          1/2 seat

 (2-7)                =          1/4 seat

 (2-8)             =             6 cm

PATIYALA SALWAR

PATIYALA SALWAR

MATERIAL WIDTH = 44"
MATERIAL NEEDED= 3MTRS

MEASUREMENTS:

LENGTH

SEAT

WAIST TO SEAT - 7"(STANDARD)

CONSTRUCTION:

(0-1)        =    LENGTH - WAIST TO SEAT

{CURVE  or  STRAIGHT}= 1/3 SEAT - waist to seat

                                        

SIDE PANELS

(0-1)   = LENGTH - WAIST TO SEAT

SIDE PANELS  = 11" WIDTH (STANDARD)

WAIST BAND

WAIST BAND

(0-1) - w to s + Band  ( ie., 7”+2” = 9”)

(0-2) & (1-3) - ¼ seat + 4” or 6”

Taking The Key Body Measurements:

Measurements when pattern sewing - If you will be using a sewing pattern, keep in mind that your measurements will not exactly match the ones on the pattern. In this case you will compare your measurements to the pattern measurements to decide where you will need alterations for a better fit.

1) Apex of bust - From the base of the neck to the highest point on the bust.
2) Chest front - From armhole to armhole
3) Bust - From bust line around the fullest part of the back, (all the way around).
4) Neck to waist
5) Waist
6) Waist to hem.
7) Side waist to hem.
8) Shoulder to waist
9) Skirt yoke.
10) Hips - Measure the fullest part of the hips.
11) Inside the arm.
12) Shoulder
13) Shoulder to waist.
14) Neck (nape) to waist (back).
15) Elbow to wrist
16) Back, armhole to armhole
17) Shoulder to elbow
18) Waist (back)
19) Upper arm
20) Skirt yoke (back)
21) Hip (back)
22) Wrist
23) Elbow
24) Waist to hem.

no.5 (front) and no.18(back) are waist line.
Hip / seat circumference - Around the hip at the fullest point of the buttocks, parallel to the floor. Approximately 7" to 8" below the waist is hip (or) seat circumference. w to s means waist to seat. ie., waist to seat length.
(w to S = distance between waist and seat) standard measurement of
w to s for adult = 7" and for children = 5 ".


In this picture, i have mentioned 7" (standard length) is 'waist to seat' length. 2" means band width. ie., total band width is 2". After folding the band ie., after stitching the band , band width will become 1". Total waist band width is 7" + 2" = 9". Add ½” seam allowance at each side of upper and lower part of fabric.













one more simple method:

Chudidhar is cutting is done on bias.

(0-2) & (0-5) = 1/3 seat
(0-2) & (5-3) = 'X' (midpoint) ie., take (0-2) & (5-3) measurement
divided into two equal parts, say 'x' and ' x' and cut dotted line x-x.
for upper part, take waist band measurement given in last post.
cut the upper part on straight grain and lower part on bias. Add ½”
seam allowance at each side of upper and lower part of fabric.

CHUDIDHAR(GATHERING)

CHUDUDHAR FOR ADULTS


Measurements:

Length

Seat

Knee

Calf

Ankle

Band

W to S = 7” standard (for adults)

Construction:

(0-1) = Length

(0-2),(2-3) & (0-5) = 1/3 seat

(3-3’) = 1 ½” extra

(5-3) = ‘x’ midpoint

(2-1) = ‘x’ midpoint say ‘10’

(10-10’) = 4” down

(10-11) = ½ knee + ¼”

(10’-11’) = ½ calf + ¼”

(1-4) = ½ ankle + ¼”

(1-1’) = 10” to 20” down ( extra for gathering)

(4-4’) = (1-1’)

Note: If width of the material is insufficient to cut the pattern on bias.

The pattern should be cut 7” to 8” above the fork line (2-3-3’) dotted line X-X

(OR) Take the midpoint of X on(5-3) and cut dotted line X-X.

for upper part, take below given waist band measurement.

Now cut the upper part on straight grain and the lower part on true bias.

In this case add ½” seam allowance at each side of this joint at X-X.

Waist Band

(0-1) = w to s + Band ie., (7”+2” = 9”)

(0-2) & (1-3) = ¼ seat + 4” or 6”

ANARKALI TOP (Green)

ANARKALI TOP WITH PANELS


Hi.............

here, i have posted one more Anarkali top with panels. I stitched this dress for my elder daughter.

SALWAR

SALWAR (Adult) - 2 ½ mtrs

Measurements:

Length - 40”

Seat - 40”

Waist to seat (w to s) - 7” (Adult) / 5” (children)

Band - 2”

Ankle - 12”

Construction:

(0-1) - Length – w to s

(0-2) - 1/3 seat – w to s

(0-5) & (2-3) - Material width

(5-5’) - 1” inside

(1-4) - ½ ankle

Waist Band

(0-1) - w to s + Band ie., (7”+2” = 9”)

(0-2) & (1-3) - ¼ seat + 4” or 6”

SIMPLE KAMEEZ

Measurements:

Length

Chest

Natural Waist length

Waist

Shoulder

Neck

Construction:

(0-1) - Length

(0-2) - [1/6 Chest (for tight fitting) ] or

[1/6 Chest + 1" ( or) 1/4 chest - 1"( for loose fitting)]

(2-3) - ¼ Chest + 1”

(0-10) - Natural Waist Length

(10-11) - ¼ Waist + 1”

(1-4) - Material width (or) [(2-3) + 2"]

(4-4') - 2" up

(0-5) - ½ Shoulder

(0-7) - 1/12 Chest

(5-6) - ½” down

for back and front Neck depth as your wish. But if you need deep neck, you should reduce the shoulder width ie., (0-5) - 1/2 shoulder - 1"

Sleeve:

Measurements:

Sleeve length

Round arm.

Construction:

(0-1) - Sleeve Length

(0-2) - 1/12 Chest + ¾”

(2-3) - ¼ Chest – 1”

(1-4) - ½ Round Arm

Seam allowance is not included in the draft.

ANARKALI SALWAR

WORKED ANARKALI TOP


I am passionate about aari embroidery , free style embroidery, all types of Indian embroidery and stitching too.
Now i am going to show this anarkali top for those who are interested.
I Stitched this Anarkali set for my younger daughter.
She likes this dress very much.
I took 3 day to finish this dress.
2 days for designing and 1 day for stitching.
I used antic beads,chammikki,golden beads and so on.
I used aari needle to stitch the beads and everything.
first, i transfered the design to the fabric then, i fixed with aari cot(rectangle frame) and i did the work.
finally, i stitched the dress.
I used crush material for more attraction.

ANARKALI TOP (RED)

hi........

I have stitched this Anarkali dress for my younger daughter, Harshini. Her birthday party held on 2nd October 2010. This time, I stitched this anarkali dress with panels.For more attraction, I attached net material on that dress.
First, I thought of doing jorthishi work and bead work on the net, unfortunately I couldn't do the embroidery on the net because the net was very thin. Finally, I stitched plain net and I stick ed stones on the neck.

In the next posting, I will be showing you the construction of the Anarkali dress and how to cut and stitch of the dress.

Welcome message

Hi.......

I am Nalinianbarasu, going to post my experience with tailoring in this blog.
please give me suggestion and co-operation.

Thank u.