Anarkali tutorial (model 1)

Measurements:

Full length

Waist length

Waist Round

Chest round

Shoulder

Neck 

Sleeve length

Sleelve round arm

Top Sleeve round

Armhole round

Front

(0-1)  =  waist length + 1/4"
(0-2)  =   1/8 chest round + 2"
(2-3)  =   1/4 chest round + 1"
(1-4)  =   1/4 waist round + 1/2"
(0-5)  =   1/2 shoulder
(5-6)  =   1/2" down (shoulder slope)
(0-7)  =   1/12 chest round (neck width)
(0-8)  =   Front neck depth
cut along (8-2-1-4-3-6-7) for front
add seam allowance for shoulder = 1/2" 
add seam allowance for sides = 1"









                                    

Back


(0-1)  =  waist length + 1/4"
(0-2)  =   1/8 chest round + 2"
(2-3)  =   1/4 chest round + 1"
(1-4)  =   1/4 waist round + 1/2"
(0-5)  =   1/2 shoulder
(5-6)  =   1/2" down (shoulder slope)
(0-7)  =   1/12 chest round (neck width)
(0-8)  =   back neck depth

x    =   midpoint of (6-a) 

cut along (8-2-1-4-3-x-6-7) for back
add seam allowance for shoulder = 1/2" 
add seam allowance for sides = 1"



for back open,
(1-8)  on open side 
finally attach zip.

Skirt ( half umbrella)

(0-1) , (0-2) & (0-3)  =  1/ 3 waist round

(1-4), (2-5) & (3-6)  =  full length -                                              waist lentgh + 1"

cut 2 skirts

take  1 skirt for cotton lining
take another skirt  for satin or raw silk material .











                                                                                                        Panels

(0-1) & (2-3)  =  skirt length + 2"

                           ( ie., panel length)

(skirt length = full length - waist length)

waist round divided by how many pcs you need
for example,take 1/10 front waist  & 1/10 back waist.  ie., total panel = 20
(10 for front and 10 for back)
(4-5) = width of the panel  = 2 3/4"
             ie., 2" + 3/4" Seam  allowance
               


(1-6)  =  bottom width of the panel
              ie., 2 * (4-5) measure
(0-4 )  =  1/2 of (4-5) measure
(6-7)  =    (4-5) measure
(5-8)  =   (1-6) measure 

if you cut this method, we can save the material (by up and down method).

first, we have to cut 3 paper cut  then we have to keep on the net fabric  and cut the panels as same as the method mentioned above.

kali pcs (same 20 pcs)

(0-1) & (2-3) = kali pc length
         ( ie., 1/2 of the length of panel or from the hip  round)

(1-6)  = 4" to 6"(bottom width of the kali pc as per our taste)
(0-5)  =  1/2  of (1-6)
(5-7), (6-8), and so on.....   = 4" to 6"


  to get more flare, we have to attach these kali pcs. in between the panels.



                                                                                            

                                                                                                      Sleeve  

                                                                       

    

(0-1) - Sleeve Length

(0-2) - 1/12 Chest + ¾”

(2-3) - ¼ Chest – 1”

(1-4) - ½ Round Arm

(or )

another method,

(0-1)  =  Sleeve length + 1/2" for folding

(0-2)  =  2" for kids

              3" for adults

(2-3)  =  1/2 top sleeve + 1/2"

(1-4)  =  1/2 Sleeve round arm

x  = midpoint of (0-3)

a  = 1/2"

b  = 3/4 "

c  = 1/2"

Add :  1" seam allowance for both sides of the sleeves


next posting ...................   stitching method