ANARKALI MODEL 2

ANARKALI (PANELS FROM SHOULDER)


                                                                          Front view

Back view

(0-1) and (2-3) =  Kali piece length (take half of the panel length (or)  from the hip of the person to till knee                          length
(1-6) = 4" to 6"(bottom width of the kali pc as per our taste)
(0-5) = 1/2 of (1-6)
(5-7), (6-8), and so on..... = 4" to 6"

first, we have to mark the measurement on the paper. Then cut along (1-5-6), (5-6-7), (6-7-8) and so on....


and then, attach the kali piece in between the panels as same as above posted anarkali pattern.

Anarkali tutorial (model 1)

Measurements:

Full length

Waist length

Waist Round

Chest round

Shoulder

Neck 

Sleeve length

Sleelve round arm

Top Sleeve round

Armhole round

Front

(0-1)  =  waist length + 1/4"
(0-2)  =   1/8 chest round + 2"
(2-3)  =   1/4 chest round + 1"
(1-4)  =   1/4 waist round + 1/2"
(0-5)  =   1/2 shoulder
(5-6)  =   1/2" down (shoulder slope)
(0-7)  =   1/12 chest round (neck width)
(0-8)  =   Front neck depth
cut along (8-2-1-4-3-6-7) for front
add seam allowance for shoulder = 1/2" 
add seam allowance for sides = 1"









                                    

Back


(0-1)  =  waist length + 1/4"
(0-2)  =   1/8 chest round + 2"
(2-3)  =   1/4 chest round + 1"
(1-4)  =   1/4 waist round + 1/2"
(0-5)  =   1/2 shoulder
(5-6)  =   1/2" down (shoulder slope)
(0-7)  =   1/12 chest round (neck width)
(0-8)  =   back neck depth

x    =   midpoint of (6-a) 

cut along (8-2-1-4-3-x-6-7) for back
add seam allowance for shoulder = 1/2" 
add seam allowance for sides = 1"



for back open,
(1-8)  on open side 
finally attach zip.

Skirt ( half umbrella)

(0-1) , (0-2) & (0-3)  =  1/ 3 waist round

(1-4), (2-5) & (3-6)  =  full length -                                              waist lentgh + 1"

cut 2 skirts

take  1 skirt for cotton lining
take another skirt  for satin or raw silk material .











                                                                                                        Panels

(0-1) & (2-3)  =  skirt length + 2"

                           ( ie., panel length)

(skirt length = full length - waist length)

waist round divided by how many pcs you need
for example,take 1/10 front waist  & 1/10 back waist.  ie., total panel = 20
(10 for front and 10 for back)
(4-5) = width of the panel  = 2 3/4"
             ie., 2" + 3/4" Seam  allowance
               


(1-6)  =  bottom width of the panel
              ie., 2 * (4-5) measure
(0-4 )  =  1/2 of (4-5) measure
(6-7)  =    (4-5) measure
(5-8)  =   (1-6) measure 

if you cut this method, we can save the material (by up and down method).

first, we have to cut 3 paper cut  then we have to keep on the net fabric  and cut the panels as same as the method mentioned above.

kali pcs (same 20 pcs)

(0-1) & (2-3) = kali pc length
         ( ie., 1/2 of the length of panel or from the hip  round)

(1-6)  = 4" to 6"(bottom width of the kali pc as per our taste)
(0-5)  =  1/2  of (1-6)
(5-7), (6-8), and so on.....   = 4" to 6"


  to get more flare, we have to attach these kali pcs. in between the panels.



                                                                                            

                                                                                                      Sleeve  

                                                                       

    

(0-1) - Sleeve Length

(0-2) - 1/12 Chest + ¾”

(2-3) - ¼ Chest – 1”

(1-4) - ½ Round Arm

(or )

another method,

(0-1)  =  Sleeve length + 1/2" for folding

(0-2)  =  2" for kids

              3" for adults

(2-3)  =  1/2 top sleeve + 1/2"

(1-4)  =  1/2 Sleeve round arm

x  = midpoint of (0-3)

a  = 1/2"

b  = 3/4 "

c  = 1/2"

Add :  1" seam allowance for both sides of the sleeves


next posting ...................   stitching method

Anarkali suit (panels from waist)

ANARKALI SALWAR  (PANELS WITH KALI PIECES)


FRONT VIEW

BACK VIEW

COMING UP..........................  

TUTORIAL    is here

Plain Umbrella Kurtha

Measurements:

Length

Chest round

Waist length

Waist round

Shoulder

Neck

 

Front and Back

(0-1)    =       Full length + 2”

(0-2)    =       1/8 th chest round + 2” ( armhole length)

(2-3)   =      1/4^th chest round + 1”

(1-4)   =      Put measurement as following:-

                   Till 32” chest, take 18”

                   Above 32” size take 20” to 22”

(4-4’)  =      take 3” upwards and give a shape.

(0-5)  =       ½ shoulder+ ¼”

(5-6)  =       ½” down (shoulder slope)

(0-7)  =       Neck width

Put measurement as following:-

                   Chest 20” & 22” = 2” 

                        “    24” & 26”  = 2 1/4”

                        “     28” , 30” & 32”  =  2 ½”

                         “     34” & 36”     =     2 ¾”

                        “     38”, 40” & 42”   =  3”

(0-8)   =      Back neck depth

For 30” chest take 1” and for chest above 30”

Take 1 ½” to 2” ( if wanted back open or one hook,

Take 2 ½” or 3” down)

(0-9)  =       Front neck depth as per choice

                   ( 6” standard)

(0-10) =      Waist length

(10-11) =   ¼ waist round + ½

                                           

Measurements:

Sleeve length

Sleeve round

top sleeve round

Sleeves:

(0-1)   =        Sleeve length + 1 ½”

(0-2)   =        for 26”chest = 2 ¼” or 2 ¾”

28” to 30”    =  3”

32” to 34”    =  3 ¼”

36” and above  = 3 ½”

(2-3)  =       take same armhole depth as you had taken for

                   Kurtha’s armhole  (or)

                   ½ top sleeve + 1”

(1-4)  =       ½ sleeve round