Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Anarkali tutorial (model 1)










Measurements:
Full length
Waist length
Waist Round
Chest round
Shoulder
Neck 
Sleeve length
Sleelve round arm
Top Sleeve round
Armhole round




Front

(0-1)  =  waist length + 1/4"
(0-2)  =   1/8 chest round + 2"
(2-3)  =   1/4 chest round + 1"
(1-4)  =   1/4 waist round + 1/2"
(0-5)  =   1/2 shoulder
(5-6)  =   1/2" down (shoulder slope)
(0-7)  =   1/12 chest round (neck width)
(0-8)  =   Front neck depth
cut along (8-2-1-4-3-6-7) for front
add seam allowance for shoulder = 1/2" 
add seam allowance for sides = 1"









                                    

Back


(0-1)  =  waist length + 1/4"
(0-2)  =   1/8 chest round + 2"
(2-3)  =   1/4 chest round + 1"
(1-4)  =   1/4 waist round + 1/2"
(0-5)  =   1/2 shoulder
(5-6)  =   1/2" down (shoulder slope)
(0-7)  =   1/12 chest round (neck width)
(0-8)  =   back neck depth

x    =   midpoint of (6-a) 

cut along (8-2-1-4-3-x-6-7) for back
add seam allowance for shoulder = 1/2" 
add seam allowance for sides = 1"



for back open,
(1-8)  on open side 
finally attach zip.






Skirt ( half umbrella)

(0-1) , (0-2) & (0-3)  =  1/ 3 waist round

(1-4), (2-5) & (3-6)  =  full length -                                              waist lentgh + 1"

cut 2 skirts

take  1 skirt for cotton lining
take another skirt  for satin or raw silk material .











                                                                                                        Panels


(0-1) & (2-3)  =  skirt length + 2"

                           ( ie., panel length)

(skirt length = full length - waist length)

waist round divided by how many pcs you need
for example,take 1/10 front waist  & 1/10 back waist.  ie., total panel = 20

(10 for front and 10 for back)
(4-5) = width of the panel  = 2 3/4"
             ie., 2" + 3/4" Seam  allowance
               


(1-6)  =  bottom width of the panel
              ie., 2 * (4-5) measure
(0-4 )  =  1/2 of (4-5) measure
(6-7)  =    (4-5) measure
(5-8)  =   (1-6) measure 

if you cut this method, we can save the material (by up and down method).

first, we have to cut 3 paper cut  then we have to keep on the net fabric  and cut the panels as same as the method mentioned above.







kali pcs (same 20 pcs)

(0-1) & (2-3) = kali pc length
         ( ie., 1/2 of the length of panel or from the hip  round)

(1-6)  = 4" to 6"(bottom width of the kali pc as per our taste)
(0-5)  =  1/2  of (1-6)
(5-7), (6-8), and so on.....   = 4" to 6"


  to get more flare, we have to attach these kali pcs. in between the panels.



                                                                                            

                                                                                                      Sleeve  

                                                                       

    

(0-1) - Sleeve Length
(0-2) - 1/12 Chest + ¾”
(2-3) - ¼ Chest – 1”
(1-4) - ½ Round Arm
(or )

another method,

(0-1)  =  Sleeve length + 1/2" for folding
(0-2)  =  2" for kids
              3" for adults
(2-3)  =  1/2 top sleeve + 1/2"
(1-4)  =  1/2 Sleeve round arm
x  = midpoint of (0-3)
a  = 1/2"
b  = 3/4 "
c  = 1/2"

Add :  1" seam allowance for both sides of the sleeves


next posting ...................   stitching method

19 comments:

  1. I don't under stand the Kali peices shaped like triangles , I'm not understanding the steps. Please explain

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  2. hi... can u pls show me how to put lace or border at the end without messing it up...i have been trying to put lace on lehnga which is half circle but couldnt getting it right... if you could help me it will b gr8...

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  3. if bottom is straight, we can put lace or border at the end of the skirt( ie. down part) like extra. but in the case of circle, we have to take only cross piece

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  4. if we stitch the anarkali dress fitting then we should have an opening is it made at the side or back open.

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  5. Dear Nalini, In the circle skirt pattern, how is a base border attached?

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  6. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  7. hi, ma,am
    please show procedure for full length with out panel anarkali

    ReplyDelete
  8. Hi,
    I'm little confused. My understanding is that you have made cotton and satin skirt by umbrella method and net skirt by panel and kali method. Am I right?

    ReplyDelete
  9. hi pls explain the method to cut panels of anarkali

    ReplyDelete
  10. Through this blog I got a better idea for purchasing all the categories of Anarkali Suits in various pattern.


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    ReplyDelete
  11. how much meters of cloth needed mam

    ReplyDelete
  12. All yr tutorials are really helpful..cn u pl give the full panel cutting method of anarkali. Thank u

    ReplyDelete
  13. Nice tutorials about how to stitching anarkali salwar suit. Thanks for sharing

    ReplyDelete
  14. hi, how many meters of cloth is required for 24 panel anarkali pattern leaving the bodice part?

    ReplyDelete
  15. Thank you for sharing excellent information. Your website is very cool. Fully useful your blog post... Salwar & Churidars

    ReplyDelete
  16. Sharkskin mesurment Annu kannadadalli explain maadi

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